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A basic study on establishing the automatic sewing process according to textile properties.
1. Introduction
2. materials and methods, 2.1. development of automatic feeding system for sewing, 2.2. preparation and measurement of the mechanical properties of the fabric samples, 2.3. sewing pattern and condition, 2.4. evaluation of sewability at the sewn seam, 3. results and discussion, 3.1. comparison of the sewing appearance by templates, 3.2. sewability according to presser height, 3.3. sewability according to sewing speed, 3.4. analysis of the correlation between the textile properties and sewing conditions, 4. conclusions, author contributions, institutional review board statement, informed consent statement, data availability statement, conflicts of interest.
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Click here to enlarge figure
Fabric Number | Structure | Thickness (mm) | Weight (g/m ) | Composition | Description |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Plain woven | 0.08 | 39 | Nylon 100% | Rip woven |
2 | Plain woven | 0.10 | 68 | Polyester 100% | Light weight woven |
3 | Plain woven | 0.30 | 115 | Nylon 70%, polyester 24%, polyurethane 6% | Span woven |
4 | Plain woven | 0.38 | 170 | Wool 40%, polyester 60% | Summer wool |
5 | Tricot knit | 0.56 | 225 | Polyester 79%, polyurethane 21% | Compression knit |
6 | Plain woven | 0.76 | 271 | Cotton 100% | Oxford |
7 | 2-layer tricot | 0.90 | 417 | Polyester 80%, polyurethane 20% | Neoprene |
8 | Pile knit | 0.94 | 316 | Cotton 100% | Corduroy |
9 | Twill woven | 0.94 | 411 | Cotton 100% | Denim |
10 | Twill woven | 0.95 | 362 | Cotton 100% | Chino |
11 | 3-layer tricot | 1.06 | 342 | Nylon 78%, polyurethane 22% (face), polyester 96%, polyurethane 4% (back) | Fleece knit |
12 | Double cloth woven | 1.51 | 517 | Wool 100% | Wool felt |
Sewability | Without Template | Flat Surface Template | Rough Surface Template |
---|---|---|---|
Appearance | |||
Stitch width (mm) | 1.0 ± 1.4 | 4.0 ± 0.7 | 4.3 ± 0.4 |
Seam strength (kgf/cm ) | 0.0 | 51.9 | 118.9 |
Seam efficiency (%) | 0.0 | 41.3 | 94.7 |
Sewability Factor | Fabric Number | Presser Height (mm) | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
0.0 | 0.5 | 1.0 | 1.5 | 2.0 | 2.5 | 3.0 | 3.5 | ||
SPI | 1 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 |
2 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
3 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
4 | 13.0 | 12.5 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 12.5 | 12.5 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
5 | 13.5 | 13.0 | 14.0 | 14.0 | 14.0 | 16.0 | 15.0 | 16.0 | |
6 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
7 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
8 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
9 | 13.0 | 12.5 | 12.5 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 12.5 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
10 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 12.5 | 12.5 | 12.5 | |
11 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
12 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
Stitch length (mm) | 1 | 1.98 | 1.97 | 2.00 | 1.94 | 1.93 | 1.97 | 1.77 | 2.02 |
2 | 2.15 | 1.95 | 2.05 | 2.10 | 2.07 | 2.06 | 1.95 | 2.12 | |
3 | 2.16 | 2.05 | 2.01 | 2.10 | 2.14 | 2.15 | 2.18 | 2.18 | |
4 | 2.05 | 2.11 | 2.08 | 2.07 | 2.06 | 1.97 | 2.06 | 2.04 | |
5 | 1.90 | 1.83 | 1.79 | 1.94 | 1.83 | 2.08 | 1.81 | 1.78 | |
6 | 1.84 | 1.86 | 1.88 | 1.91 | 1.91 | 1.86 | 1.86 | 1.92 | |
7 | 1.78 | 1.77 | 1.76 | 1.83 | 1.81 | 1.78 | 1.82 | 1.80 | |
8 | 1.86 | 1.87 | 1.90 | 1.84 | 1.88 | 1.88 | 1.87 | 1.80 | |
9 | 1.80 | 1.86 | 1.87 | 1.87 | 1.87 | 1.76 | 1.85 | 1.88 | |
10 | 1.76 | 1.85 | 1.84 | 1.83 | 1.82 | 1.90 | 1.88 | 1.86 | |
11 | 1.50 | 1.57 | 1.66 | 1.68 | 1.67 | 1.71 | 1.73 | 1.61 | |
12 | 1.62 | 1.63 | 1.56 | 1.62 | 1.62 | 1.61 | 1.59 | 1.57 | |
Width of seam allowance (mm) | 1 | 14.4 | 14.0 | 8.0 | 11.8 | 15.4 | 9.0 | 7.2 | 8.2 |
2 | 13.8 | 11.6 | 13.4 | 12.4 | 12.4 | 11.8 | 10.5 | 11.4 | |
3 | 15.2 | 14.6 | 14.6 | 13.6 | 15.0 | 13.6 | 15.2 | 12.6 | |
4 | 16.2 | 15.0 | 13.4 | 14.4 | 13.8 | 14.6 | 13.6 | 17.0 | |
5 | 13.0 | 15.0 | 12.4 | 14.4 | 14.6 | 13.2 | 11.4 | 7.4 | |
6 | 14.8 | 15.4 | 15.8 | 15.0 | 15.0 | 15.6 | 15.2 | 15.0 | |
7 | 15.2 | 15.2 | 13.6 | 14.8 | 14.2 | 13.4 | 14.8 | 14.4 | |
8 | 15.0 | 16.0 | 14.0 | 15.0 | 14.0 | 15.0 | 15.2 | 16.2 | |
9 | 14.2 | 15.0 | 13.8 | 14.6 | 14.8 | 14.8 | 14.0 | 15.2 | |
10 | 15.0 | 16.2 | 15.0 | 15.6 | 15.0 | 15.8 | 14.2 | 14.0 | |
11 | 16.4 | 15.0 | 14.8 | 15.4 | 16.8 | 15.4 | 14.2 | 13.4 | |
12 | 15.2 | 15.6 | 14.6 | 15.6 | 14.2 | 15.6 | 15.8 | 14.8 |
Sewability Factor | Fabric Number | Sewing Speed (RPM) | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
200 | 400 | 800 | ||
SPI | 1 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 |
2 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
3 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
4 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 12.5 | |
5 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.5 | |
6 | 13.0 | 12.5 | 12.5 | |
7 | 13.0 | 12.5 | 8.5 | |
8 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 11.5 | |
9 | 12.5 | 13.0 | 13.5 | |
10 | 12.5 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
11 | 13.0 | 12.5 | 7.0 | |
12 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 13.0 | |
Stitch length (mm) | 1 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 |
2 | 2.1 | 1.8 | 1.7 | |
3 | 2.2 | 2.2 | 2.1 | |
4 | 2.1 | 2.0 | 1.9 | |
5 | 1.8 | 1.7 | 1.6 | |
6 | 1.9 | 2.2 | 2.2 | |
7 | 1.8 | 2.1 | 3.2 | |
8 | 1.9 | 2.1 | 2.6 | |
9 | 1.8 | 2.0 | 2.0 | |
10 | 1.9 | 2.1 | 2.0 | |
11 | 1.7 | 2.0 | 2.7 | |
12 | 1.6 | 1.9 | 1.7 | |
Width of seam allowance (mm) | 1 | 14.4 | 10.0 | 10.8 |
2 | 13.8 | 9.0 | 7.6 | |
3 | 15.2 | 14.4 | 14.0 | |
4 | 13.4 | 12.4 | 13.2 | |
5 | 15.0 | 12.2 | 12.4 | |
6 | 15.0 | 14.8 | 14.6 | |
7 | 14.8 | 14.4 | 14.4 | |
8 | 15.0 | 13.6 | 15.0 | |
9 | 14.8 | 14.0 | 15.0 | |
10 | 15.8 | 13.2 | 14.6 | |
11 | 14.2 | 14.2 | 15.6 | |
12 | 14.8 | 14.4 | 14.6 |
Sewability Factor | Fabric Number | Sewing Speed (RPM) | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
200 | 400 | 800 | ||
SPI | 6 | 12.5 | 13.5 | 13.0 |
7 | 12.5 | 12.5 | 12.5 | |
8 | 13.0 | 13.5 | 13.0 | |
9 | 13.0 | 12.5 | 12.5 | |
10 | 13.0 | 13.0 | 12.5 | |
11 | 11.5 | 12.5 | 8.0 | |
12 | 11.5 | 12.5 | 9.5 | |
Stitch width (mm) | 6 | 3.9 | 4.6 | 3.4 |
7 | 3.4 | 3.1 | 3.0 | |
8 | 4.2 | 4.9 | 4.9 | |
9 | 4.1 | 5.1 | 5.1 | |
10 | 5.2 | 5.7 | 5.9 | |
11 | 4.1 | 5.5 | 4.1 | |
12 | 3.2 | 4.8 | 3.3 |
Fabric Number | Thickness (mm) | Weight (g/m ) | Density | Tensile Strength (N/cm) | Elongation (%) | Flex Stiffness (mN·m) | Surface Roughness (mm) |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 0.08 | 39 | 361 | 71.2 | 42.5 | 0.04 | 1.25 |
2 | 0.10 | 68 | 270 | 124.0 | 35.9 | 0.10 | 1.75 |
3 | 0.30 | 115 | 204 | 113.3 | 51.3 | 0.04 | 3.52 |
4 | 0.38 | 170 | 137 | 57.7 | 34.4 | 0.06 | 7.02 |
5 | 0.56 | 225 | 186 | 59.7 | 285.7 | 0.04 | 0.95 |
6 | 0.76 | 271 | 116 | 145.7 | 17.4 | 0.30 | 12.87 |
7 | 0.90 | 417 | 194 | 302.5 | 257.5 | 0.61 | 1.31 |
8 | 0.94 | 316 | 84 | 100.8 | 14.8 | 0.48 | 10.08 |
9 | 0.94 | 411 | 120 | 244.2 | 26.3 | 3.18 | 5.75 |
10 | 0.95 | 362 | 108 | 211.2 | 20.9 | 0.80 | 6.82 |
11 | 1.06 | 342 | 207 | 91.0 | 219.2 | 0.25 | 2.35 |
12 | 1.51 | 517 | 84 | 111.0 | 49.4 | 1.19 | 2.29 |
Textile Property | Sewability Factor | |||
---|---|---|---|---|
SPI | Stitch Length | Seam Allowance | Seam Strength | |
Stiffness | −0.046 | −0.233 * | 0.254 ** | −0.337 ** |
Thickness | −0.125 | −0.414 ** | 0.566 ** | −0.779 ** |
Weight | −0.160 | −0.376 ** | 0.546 ** | −0.781 ** |
Density | 0.005 | 0.178 | −617 ** | 0.746 ** |
Roughness | −0.019 | 0.111 | 0.392 ** | −0.284 ** |
Tensile strength | −0.053 | −0.068 | 0.204 * | −0.098 |
Elongation | −0.024 | −0.137 | −0.036 | −0.322 ** |
Effect Factor | Sewing Condition | ||
---|---|---|---|
Presser Height | Sewing Speed | ||
Textile properties | Stiffness | 0.116 | 0.000 |
Thickness | 0.200 * | 0.000 | |
Weight | 0.193 * | 0.000 | |
Density | −0.149 | 0.000 | |
Roughness | 0.064 | 0.000 | |
Tensile strength | 0.069 | 0.000 | |
Elongation | 0.000 | 0.000 | |
Sewability factor | SPI | −0.063 | −0.264 ** |
Stitch length | 0.085 | 0.376 ** | |
Seam allowance | −0.027 | −0.132 | |
Seam strength | −0.187 * | −0.026 |
Model | Unstandardized Coefficients | Standardized Coefficients | R | ΔR | ΔF | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
B | Std. Error | β | ||||||
Thickness | 1 | (Constant) | 61.145 | 3.383 | 0.608 | 0.001 | 0.291 | |
Thickness | −47.575 | 3.641 | −0.772 ** | |||||
Presser Height | −0.697 | 1.292 | −0.032 | |||||
2 | (Constant) | 71.110 | 4.458 | 0.641 | 0.033 | 10.674 * | ||
Thickness | −63.339 | 5.975 | −1.029 ** | |||||
Presser Height | −6.953 | 2.282 | −0.318 * | |||||
T-×-P | 9.135 | 2.796 | 0.459 * | |||||
Weight | 1 | (Constant) | 64.683 | 3.539 | 0.611 | 0.001 | 0.409 | |
Weight | −0.136 | 0.010 | −0.774 ** | |||||
Presser Height | −0.821 | 1.284 | −0.038 | |||||
2 | (Constant) | 75.074 | 4.779 | 0.641 | 0.030 | 9.657 * | ||
Weight | −0.179 | 0.017 | −1.017 ** | |||||
Presser Height | −7.411 | 2.456 | −0.339 * | |||||
W-×-P | 0.025 | 0.008 | 0.456 * |
Testing Sample | Seam Strength | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
By Equation (2) | By Equation (3) | |||||||
Thickness (mm) | Weight (g/m ) | Experimental value | Predicted value | Error | Experimental value | Predicted value | Error | |
1 | 0.29 | 70 | 56.4 | 50.6 | 5.8 | 56.4 | 59.7 | 3.3 |
2 | 0.76 | 271 | 20.0 | 23.0 | 3.0 | 20.0 | 25.9 | 5.9 |
3 | 0.94 | 316 | 14.8 | 14.0 | 0.8 | 14.8 | 19.2 | 4.4 |
Textile Properties | Sewability Factor | ||
---|---|---|---|
SPI | Stitch Width | Seam Strength | |
Stiffness | 0.086 | 0.019 | −0.506 ** |
Thickness | −0.424 * | −0.168 | −0.301 |
Weight | −0.354 * | −0.276 | −0.369 * |
Density | −0.348 * | −0.198 | 0.142 |
Roughness | 0.503 ** | 0.256 | 0.207 |
Tensile strength | 0.272 | 0.367 * | 0.053 |
Elongation | −0.442 ** | −0.354 * | 0.051 |
Effect Factor | Sewing Condition | ||
---|---|---|---|
Presser Height | Sewing Speed | ||
Textile properties | Stiffness | 0.100 | 0.000 |
Thickness | 0.698 ** | 0.000 | |
Weight | 0.470 ** | 0.000 | |
Density | −0.100 | 0.000 | |
Roughness | −0.376 * | 0.000 | |
Tensile strength | −0.185 | 0.000 | |
Elongation | 0.023 | 0.000 | |
Sewability factor | SPI | −0.416 * | −0.155 |
Stitch width | 0.221 | 0.297 | |
Seam strength | −0.211 | −0.235 |
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Lee, S.; Rho, S.; Lim, D.; Jeong, W. A Basic Study on Establishing the Automatic Sewing Process According to Textile Properties. Processes 2021 , 9 , 1206. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr9071206
Lee S, Rho S, Lim D, Jeong W. A Basic Study on Establishing the Automatic Sewing Process According to Textile Properties. Processes . 2021; 9(7):1206. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr9071206
Lee, Suhyun, Soohyeon Rho, Daeyoung Lim, and Wonyoung Jeong. 2021. "A Basic Study on Establishing the Automatic Sewing Process According to Textile Properties" Processes 9, no. 7: 1206. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr9071206
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Please note you do not have access to teaching notes, the study of sewing damage and defects in garments.
Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
ISSN : 1560-6074
Article publication date: 8 May 2018
Issue publication date: 24 May 2018
The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.
Design/methodology/approach
This section is not applicable for a review paper.
Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.
Originality/value
It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.
- Fabric sewability
- Needle cut index
- Sewing damages
- Sewing defects
- Sewing needle
- Sewing thread
Choudhary, A.K. , Sikka, M.P. and Bansal, P. (2018), "The study of sewing damage and defects in garments", Research Journal of Textile and Apparel , Vol. 22 No. 2, pp. 109-125. https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-08-2017-0041
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The Rise and Fall of the First American Patent Thicket: The Sewing Machine War of the 1850s
Arizona Law Review, Vol. 53, pp. 165-211, 2011
George Mason Law & Economics Research Paper No. 09-19
47 Pages Posted: 6 Mar 2009 Last revised: 10 Jun 2012
Adam Mossoff
George Mason University - Antonin Scalia Law School
Date Written: March 6, 2009
When Michael Heller proposed that excessively fragmented property rights in land can frustrate its commercial development, patent scholars began debating whether Heller's anticommons theory applies to property rights in inventions. Do "patent thickets" exist? The rise and fall of the first American patent thicket -- the Sewing Machine War of the 1850s -- confirms that patent thickets do exist and that they can frustrate commercial development of new products. But this historical patent thicket also challenges the widely held assumption that this is a modern problem arising from allegedly new issues in the patent system, such as incremental high-tech innovation and the impact of "patent trolls." The Sewing Machine War exhibited all of these phenomena, proving that these are hoary issues in patent law. The denouement of this patent thicket in the Sewing Machine Combination of 1856, the first privately formed patent pool, further challenges the conventional wisdom that patent thickets are best solved through public-ordering regimes that limit property rights in patents. The invention and incredible commercial success of the sewing machine is a striking account of early American technological, commercial, and legal ingenuity, which heralds important empirical lessons for how patent thicket theory is understood and applied today.
Keywords: A Stitch in Time: The Rise and Fall of the Sewing Machine Patent Thicket, commercial trust, e-Bay v. MercExchange, follow-on inventions, Industrial Revolution, Howe, Krems, Madersperger, monopoly, Newton, Singer, Song of the Shirt, Thimonnier, Useful Arts, Weisenthal
JEL Classification: D23, K11, O34
Suggested Citation: Suggested Citation
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- DOI: 10.1109/ICE.2017.8279995
- Corpus ID: 3432191
Monitoring and control of industrial sewing machines research on thread tension behavior in lockstitch machines
- Patricia Mellero , Sandra Biegas , +1 author F. Ferreira
- Published in International Conference on… 1 June 2017
- Engineering, Materials Science
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Buttonhole sewing secrets every beginner should learn, a step-by-step guide to understanding, sewing, cutting, and troubleshooting buttonholes for perfect results every time., posted in: tutorials & techniques • september 18, 2024.
DEK: A step-by-step guide to understanding, sewing, cutting, and troubleshooting buttonholes for perfect results every time.
When I ask people what they find trickiest in sewing, buttonholes are always at the top of the list. They can feel intimidating, but with a few key techniques, buttonholes will become just another simple step in your sewing process.
If you’ve struggled with buttonholes in the past, have no fear. I’m going to share all the secrets you need to know, from start to finish. This is your complete guide to buttonholes. Watch the video above to see these tips in action, and keep reading for detailed notes.
In this guide, you’ll learn about:
- The tools and notions you’ll need
- How to select the right type of buttonhole for your fabric
- How to mark buttonhole placement
- Why you should stabilize your fabric
- How to create, cut, and reinforce your buttonholes
- Plus, some tips for troubleshooting common buttonhole issues
The Tools and Notions You’ll Need
Before you start, make sure you have the right tools. A good setup makes all the difference when it comes to smooth buttonhole sewing.
You’ll need:
- A sewing machine with a buttonhole foot (some machines have automatic buttonholes, while others require manual stitching)
- A water-soluble fabric marker
- Interfacing or stabilizer
- Sharp scissors or a buttonhole cutter (this specialized tool makes clean cuts and precise finishes)
What’s a buttonhole cutter? It’s a sharp tool designed to cut your buttonholes with ease, helping you avoid fraying or damaging your fabric.
If you don’t have one, sharp scissors work too!
Choosing the Right Type of Buttonhole
Not all buttonholes are created equal. Depending on your fabric and the type of garment you're sewing, you’ll want to select the right buttonhole style for the job.
Classic rectangular buttonhole : A regular buttonhole is ideal for medium-weight woven fabrics, and it will likely be the buttonhole you use most frequently.
Narrow buttonhole : Perfect for lightweight fabrics, like silk or voile. If you don’t have this function on your machine, you can reduce the width on your buttonhole stitch to make it more delicate.
Keyhole buttonhole : These are best for heavier fabrics, jackets, or coats. The round end helps accommodate thick buttons.
Stretch (or knit) buttonhole : This buttonhole is designed for knits and stretchy fabrics. It moves with the fabric. If your machine doesn’t have this function, increase the stitch length to add flexibility to the buttonhole.
Corded buttonhole : This is a type of buttonhole reinforced with a cord to provide extra strength and durability. It’s particularly useful for fabrics that might fray easily, such as knits, lightweight wovens, or delicate fabrics.
Bound buttonholes : You can create a bound buttonhole as a tailored option for outerwear or more formal garments. It’s almost like a little welt pocket. If you want a tutorial on bound buttonholes, let me know!
You can sew all of these on a machine, but you can also hand sew a buttonhole, which is a beautiful couture detail for special projects.
Marking Your Buttonholes
Most patterns will include buttonhole markings to match the recommended button size. If you're using a different size button, measure the button and add about 1/8 inch (3 mm) to the length to ensure it fits.
Use a water-soluble marker to mark the start and end points of each buttonhole. If you're adjusting button placement, consider using an expandable button gauge to ensure even spacing. Larger buttons may require you to move buttonholes further from the edge of the fabric, while smaller ones might need to be placed closer.
Stabilizing the Fabric
Stabilizing your fabric is key to long-lasting buttonholes. Most patterns call for interfacing in areas where buttonholes will go. Interfacing strengthens the fabric, making sure your buttonholes can withstand repeated wear.
For lightweight or stretchy fabrics, consider using a wash-away or tear-away stabilizer in addition to interfacing. This prevents the fabric from puckering or shifting as you sew.
Setting Up Your Sewing Machine
Once your fabric is marked and stabilized, it’s time to set up your machine:
Attach your buttonhole foot and select the stitch that matches the buttonhole style you want.
Use the buttonhole foot’s slider to mark the length of the buttonhole.
Follow your machine’s manual for specific settings. Each machine has its own instructions for creating buttonholes, so it’s worth taking a moment to check.
Here's an important tip: Never start a buttonhole on your actual garment without testing it first. Use a scrap piece of fabric that matches your project, including any interfacing or stabilizer.
Test your buttonhole and make sure:
- Your button fits easily through the hole.
- There are no skipped stitches or tension issues.
Adjust the buttonhole length if needed before sewing on your garment.
Creating the Buttonhole
To sew the buttonhole, start stitching at the top of your marked line.
Sew continuously to avoid stopping or pausing mid-stitch.
Once you reach the end of the buttonhole, use the backstitch function on your machine to finish it off.
Repeat for the remaining buttonholes, following the same process.
Cutting the Buttonhole
Cutting your buttonhole is a delicate step. If you use sharp scissors or a seam ripper, place pins at both ends of the buttonhole to prevent overcutting. Start from the center and carefully cut towards the ends.
If you use a buttonhole cutter, just place your garment over a cutting mat and chisel it.
Reinforcing the Buttonhole
Here are a few tips for reinforcing your buttonholes to make sure they last:
- After you sew, press the stitches gently with an iron.
- Apply fray check to the edges before cutting and it will secure your buttonhole and keep the threads from coming loose. Avoid putting fray check on any water-soluble markings, because it will seal the marking and make it permanent. So, rinse of the markings before applying fray check.
- Add bar tacks at the ends for extra strength, especially on thick fabrics.
Fixing Common Buttonhole Issues
- pply fray check to the edges before cutting and it will secure your buttonhole and keep the threads from coming loose. Avoid putting fray check on any water-soluble markings, because it will seal the marking and make it permanent. So, rinse of the markings before applying fray check.
Final Tip: Using Buttonhole Gimp
Want to create a super stable buttonhole? Try using buttonhole gimp. It’s a thicker thread that reinforces the buttonhole, helping it hold its shape. You can loop the gimp onto your buttonhole foot, and your machine will stitch over it, giving you a sharp, defined finish. This is especially useful for tailored garments or stretchy fabrics.
Read this article and watch the video to learn how to use it: How to Sew Tricky Buttonholes .
Now that you’ve got all the tips you need, you’re ready to start sewing buttonholes with confidence!
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Evaluation of Reservoir Porosity and Permeability from Well Log Data Based on an Ensemble Approach: A Comprehensive Study Incorporating Experimental, Simulation, and Fieldwork Data
- Original Paper
- Published: 18 September 2024
Cite this article
- Edwin E. Nyakilla ORCID: orcid.org/0000-0002-7402-2611 1 , 2 ,
- Sun Guanhua 1 , 2 ,
- Hao Hongliang 2 ,
- Grant Charles 3 ,
- Mouigni B. Nafouanti 3 ,
- Emanuel X. Ricky 3 ,
- Selemani N. Silingi 3 , 4 ,
- Elieneza N. Abelly 3 ,
- Eric R. Shanghvi 3 ,
- Safi Naqibulla 3 ,
- Mbega R. Ngata 3 ,
- Erasto Kasala 3 ,
- Melckzedeck Mgimba 5 ,
- Alaa Abdulmalik 3 ,
- Fatna A. Said 7 ,
- Mbula N. Nadege 3 ,
- Johnson J. Kasali 6 &
Permeability and porosity are key parameters in reservoir characterization for understanding hydrocarbon flow behavior. While traditional laboratory core analysis is time-consuming, machine learning has emerged as a valuable tool for more efficient and accurate estimation. This paper proposes an ensemble technique called adaptive boosting (AdaBoost) for porosity and permeability estimation, utilizing methods such as support vector machine (SVM), Gaussian process regression (GPR), multivariate analysis, and backpropagation neural network (BPNN) for prediction based on well logs. Performance evaluation metrics including root mean square error, mean square error, and coefficient of determination ( R 2 ) were used to compare the models. The results demonstrate that AdaBoost outperformed GPR, SVM, and BPNN models in terms of processing time and accuracy, achieving R 2 values of 0.980 and 0.962 for permeability and porosity during training, respectively, and 0.960 and 0.951 during testing, respectively. This study highlights AdaBoost as a robust and accurate technique that can enhance reservoir characterization.
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Acknowledgments
This work was supported by the Natural Science Foundation of Hubei (Three Gorges Innovation Development Joint Fund grant No. 2022CFD031), this work was supported by Peking University Ordos Energy Research Institute, Huineng Kechuang Building, Minzu Road, Kangbashi District, Ordos City, Inner Mongolia, and the National Science Foundation for Young Scientists of China (12302507). Finally, we would like to express our sincere thanks and gratitude to all reviewers and editors for their time end efforts toward raising this work to the publication standards.
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Nyakilla, E.E., Guanhua, S., Hongliang, H. et al. Evaluation of Reservoir Porosity and Permeability from Well Log Data Based on an Ensemble Approach: A Comprehensive Study Incorporating Experimental, Simulation, and Fieldwork Data. Nat Resour Res (2024). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11053-024-10402-9
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Published : 18 September 2024
DOI : https://doi.org/10.1007/s11053-024-10402-9
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